What are Ceramides and How They Work In Skin Care Products?
Ceramides make up 60% of the skin barrier, but what are
ceramides and what is the purpose of ceramides in skin care?
Introduction:
Ceramides are the main component of the skin’s surface.
Ceramides acts as the glue that locks together the surface area of skin cells.
They are produced in the granular layer of the epidermis below the stratum
corneum .They protect against moisture loss to keep skin youthful, supple and
nourish the skin from within .There are nine types of ceramides in the stratum
corneum, conveniently named ceramide 1 through ceramide 9, and they account for
40 to 50% of the lipids in this outermost layer.
Mechanism of Action:
The stratum corneum generates enzymes, which convert
phospholipids and other lipids into a mixture of ceramides, cholesterol and
free fatty acids. They are waxy lipids found in the outer layer of skin cells
that help regulate the water barrier and water-holding capacity in the skin by
creating a water-impermeable protective layer to prevent excessive water loss
as well as build a barrier against the entry of microorganisms. Research
indicates that ceramides reach the growing levels of skin and improve the
health of skin cells.
History:
The long-time use of ceramides in Japan and their safety
data played a part in their approval by the US FDA. Ceramides are often used in
treating atopic dermatitis.
Sources:
Ceramides are mostly extracted from sweet potatoes,
whole-grains such as wheat, and brown rice. Wheat derived ceramides are used in
beauty drinks and nutritional supplements.
How ceramides appear
on labels?
It appears as ceramide PC-102 (Hydroxypropyl bislauramide
MEA), ceramide PC-104, ceramide PC-108, ceramide 1, 2, 3, 111, 6-11, etc. Some
chemical names of ceramides are
•
N-stearoyl sphinganine
• N-stearoyl
phytosphingosine
• α-hydroxy-N-stearoylphytosphingosine
• Caproyl
sphingosine
• Cetyl-PG
Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide
• Hexadecanamide
Natural Source of Ceramides:
Rice-rich diet is a good source, because it is rich in
natural phytoceramides.
Specifically, ceramides are mostly used in moisturizers,
serums, and sunscreens.
Functions:
2 major functions of ceramides within skin and in skin care
include:
1. Skin Barrier Homeostasis
These lipids include 50% ceramides, 25% cholesterol, and 15%
free fatty acids.
2. Improve Hydration
Since ceramides account for half of the gel-like lipid layer
holding up skin cells in the Stratum Corneum, their water-holding function is
no surprise.
Ceramides Safety Profile
Specific ceramide ingredients which earn A safety ratings:
• Ceramide
3
• Ceramide
2
• Ceramide
6 II
In conclusion , skin care products containing ceramides
appear to be safe and effective, but more clinical studies are needed to prove
the benefits as claimed.
Sources:
[1]
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/318401653_Ceramides_in_the_skin_barrier
[2] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12553851
[3]
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/311887458_Nutritional_Composition_Extraction_and_Utilization_of_Wheat_Germ_Oil_A_Review
[4] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17872588
[5] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12460719
[6] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18336739
[7] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16060709
[8] https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3970828/
[9]
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1002/ejlt.201000495
[10]https://www.happi.com/issues/2016-08-02/view_anti-aging--cosmeceutical_corner/the-science-of-ceramides-improves-aging-skin/
Comments
Post a Comment